Emissions equipment Thermostat Housing Problems When I rebuilt the V8 in my ’77 Jeep Wagoneer, I noticed that one of the thermostat housing bolt holes was partially clogged with something. Attempting to drill out the hole only killed the drill bit, so I’m assuming that the object was a piece of a broken tap or some other super-hard object. About nine months later before a long road trip , I decided I ought to fix it. These were mid-grade taps, not the el-cheapos you find at the corner hardware store. Perhaps super high quality taps would have worked better. Upon further inspection, it appears that somebody sometime welded the original hole shut for some reason, then redrilled a new hole slightly off-center. This also meant that the thermostat housing didn’t line up quite right with the ports in the manifold, but it was close enough to get by. Anyway, this weld material was apparently harder than my taps, and that’s what caused them to go flat. I tried using JB Weld to “weld” a stud into that hole rather than threading it for a bolt.
Larger carburetors can make morepower on a dynamometer, but this can also result in slower accelerationand lower efficiency of fuel atomization. Where should I hook up my vacuum advance? The most detrimental effects of using the wrongport is an increase or decrease of rpm and poor idle characteristics. Generally the distributor vacuum line goes to the timed port.
The accelerator-pumpsystem consists of three main components:
I recognize that the ignition control part of an EFI system can be the most intimidating part of the entire project. And most EFI System manufacturers seem to focus more on “how to connect it” than “how it works”, so even after some folks get it working they really don’t know what they did.
How to Install a Rochester Carburetor on an Engine by Chris Stevenson Rochester garnered fame with the Quadra-Jet carburetor, but their two-barrel models were equally praised. The four-barrel design incorporated two huge, secondary throttle bores that allowed an extra-large volume of fuel and air to enter the intake manifold. They were very popular decades ago and can still be found on classic and muscle cars today.
Basic in design, they lend themselves well to rebuilding and high-performance modifications. You can swap them out with different makes and designs with the use of adaptor plates. Alternatively, you can simply bolt them back onto their original intake mounts. Place the vehicle in park or neutral with the emergency brake set.
Disconnect the negative battery cable with an end wrench. Unscrew the wing nut on the air cleaner lid and remove the air cleaner housing. Use masking tape and a felt pen to mark all vacuum hoses connected to the carburetor, including the throttle positioner diaphragm if so equipped , or vacuum advance line.
Inspect the hoses for cracks or splits, so you can replace them. Mark any wire locations with masking tape and a felt pen. Remove any wires from their posts, like the pick-up solenoid or any other sensor wire that belongs to an electronic ignition systems, by manually pulling them from their jack connections. Loosen the hex nut on the pick-up solenoid if so equipped with an end wrench and unscrew the solenoid.
My only disclaimer is that you should read all of this before starting, and take your time. The information here applies to various Buick V8 and V6 engines, so make sure you understand the details as they apply to your engine. Your mileage may vary and your car may be different than mine was. The usual “Do this at your own risk” disclaimers apply. This is a pretty long and detailed page, so give it a good read before you start this process.
The following few paragraphs is a set of rules I had to create because people were emailing me without enough information or asking really stupid questions that I had no way to answer.
Be sure to save the illustrations separately. The opinions expressed here are my experiences, and your experiences may vary. I don’t put myself forward as the world’s leading expert on Holleys, but I do have some helpful ideas. In some cases, I may not be able to answer specific questions, but I’ll do my best. I know very little about other brands of carburetors and have no information about them, only general operating principles.
I have NO experience with any type of supercharger or turbocharger, so please don’t ask me anything about your blower or turbo applications. The following few paragraphs is a set of rules I had to create because people were emailing me without enough information or asking really stupid questions that I had no way to answer.
Mallory Answers Some Questions About Distributor Choices
Car Year, Make, Model: Thanks for the reply I think I will try the PCV valve. If I added another adaptor it wouldn’t fit under my hood.
VINTAGE AIR, INC SAN ANTONIO, TX Vintage Air, Inc. is the leading manufacturer of Performance Air Conditioning systems for your Streetrod, Muscle car, or Classic Car and Truck.
All new vinyl upholstery done in original pattern. This boat is in absolute “Show” condition. West bottom, new frames where needed, new decks, topsides, transom, and chrome. Leather supplied by Keleen and installed by JD Canvas. Restored gauges by Pat Powell. One of built Excellent condition, ready to show.
Engine rebuild and restored original blue faced gauges. Correct in every way, excellent condition, ready to show. Great roomy, rough water boat. Original wood and hardware and accessories:
289 Vacuum Lines And Hoses
I’ve fixed all the vacuum leaks, and I’m ready to take a look at the carburetor. The truck seems to hesitate when I hit the throttle, but I made some observations today that may indicate that I’m running too lean. Tell me what you guys think. How does it run compared to before you fixed that vacuum leaks?
This thing is a bargain! It is extremely well-built, and it’s evident the minute you open the packaging. I have been running it on a 75 K5 Blazer with what I thought was a tired , but upgrading the original distributor to this one has breathed new life into my old motor.
Clip for Email Clip for Social Media The perfect upgrade for your ignition system, Max-Fire distributors from Edelbrock are ready to run out of the box. Ideal for replacing or upgrading from a points triggered distributor, they feature precision machining for a perfect fit along with a simple three-wire hookup for an easy installation and no need to run an external ignition control box. Max-Fire distributors use a centerless ground shaft with an upper sealed roller bearing and extra-long lower bronze Oil-Lite bushing for smooth operation.
The high-output magnetic pickup and large paddle wheel reluctor deliver a strong trigger signal at high RPM for maximum performance. These features combine to provide unrivaled voltage to the coil—ensuring maximum performance from your engine. Each distributor includes a cap, rotor, retainer, and mechanical advance curve kit. Consider pairing your Max-Fire distributor with a coordinating Edelbrock Max-Fire coil for maximum voltage output.
Features CNC machined from T6 aluminum. O-ring grooves for use in a fully machined engine block. Brass contacts and a stainless steel rotor spring for maximum conductivity. Hardened iron drive gear for long service life. Fully adjustable mechanical and vacuum advance for increased mileage potential.
Demystifying Holley Terminator and Sniper Ignition Hookup
This is due to the simple one piece design, easy installation and performance enhancements over a stock ignition system. The all-in-one DUI replaces the weak three component system that came standard on the Buick engines and utilizes only one 12 volt hot wire for hookup. The DUI is equipped with an internal 50, volt coil, which will fire a spark plug gap as large as. Their high dwell Dyna-Module, located inside the distributor, increases spark duration for improvements in throttle response and low end power.
Search Results: Over 20 feet. boats were found that matched your search. Scroll down and click on the ID or Boat Description to view. Click here to receive e-mail when more boats of this type become available (Over 20 feet).
By Michael Harding January 31, When you bought your car, if it had a distributor there was one choice. So the performance aftermarket stepped up to the plate and produced distributors for performance junkies, like us, to give us more choices when it came to creating the spark that ignites the fire in our engines. Mallory Ignition is one of those companies, and their name has been on the minds of performance enthusiasts since when the Mallory Research Company formed Mallory Electric.
Mallory has come a very long way since that first breakerless magneto that they invented, and they now have several distributors to choose from — surely something to fit nearly every need when it comes to your vehicle. Which Distributor Fits Your Needs? While we all know that we need better performance than our factory stock distributor, the question gets raised quite often about which distributor best fits our needs.
Well, guess no more, because Mallory has put up an info page to help you make that decision with a little more confidence, and a lot more knowledge about distributors. Starting with the classic mechanical points-style distributor for the old school hot rodder 23, 24, 25, 26, and 27 Series , this dual point distributors have an adjustable mechanical advance, with the 27 series adding an adjustable vacuum advance, and are ready to run right from the box.
Add the HyFire igntion to this distributor for even better control of your ignition system. The Magnetic Breakerless distributors 42, 50, and 57 Series all have a magnetic pickup and module to trigger the timing. Each has an adjustable mechanical advance, with the 57 Series including an adjustable vacuum advance, and simple three-wire hookup.
These distributors require a high performance coil, and can be used with or without the HyFire ignition box. The Unilite distributor is one that people see quite often 37, 38, 45, and 47 Series , and it contains a one-piece optical pickup and module with infrared technology.